Manali–Leh or Srinagar–Leh: which road to Ladakh?

Two great roads lead into Ladakh: one from Srinagar in the west, over Zoji La, and one from Manali in the south, over the high passes of Lahaul. Both are spectacular. They feel very different, though, and the order you drive them in changes how you feel when you arrive.

The short answer

If you are driving both ways, go in from Srinagar and come out through Manali. The Srinagar road climbs gently and lets you acclimatise on the way up. The Manali road crosses passes above 5,000 metres on a single long day, which is far easier once your body has already adjusted in Ladakh.

Srinagar to Leh

• About 434 km, usually driven over two days with a night in Kargil.
• Highest point: Fotu La at 4,108 metres. Zoji La is lower, at about 3,528 metres.
• Usually open from April or May to November or December, though Zoji La closes in heavy snow.
• On the way: Sonamarg, the war memorial at Drass, the Maitreya carving at Mulbekh and the moonland of Lamayuru.

The road is in good condition for most of its length. The night in Kargil, at about 2,676 metres, is the reason this route is easier on the body.

Manali to Leh

• About 428 km through the Atal Tunnel, best split over two days with a night in Jispa or Sarchu.
• Highest point: Tanglang La at 5,328 metres, with Baralacha La at about 4,890 metres.
• Usually open from June to mid-October.
• On the way: the Atal Tunnel, the Bhaga valley, the Gata Loops and the vast More Plains.

This is the wilder of the two roads, with long empty stretches, water crossings early in the season and camps rather than towns. Sarchu, at about 4,290 metres, is a hard place to sleep if you have come straight from Manali.

When each road is open

The window for driving both roads is roughly mid-June to mid-September. In May and early June you can usually reach Leh from Srinagar but not yet from Manali; from mid-October the Manali road closes first. Opening dates change every year with the snow, so we confirm them before you travel.

Mobile phones and permits

Only postpaid connections from outside Jammu & Kashmir and Ladakh work on the Srinagar side and in Ladakh. Indian citizens no longer need an Inner Line Permit for Ladakh, but everyone pays the environment fee. No Rohtang permit is needed on the Manali side, because the road goes through the Atal Tunnel.

Doing both

Our Great Himalayan Traverse does exactly this in twelve days: Srinagar, Kargil, Leh, Nubra and Pangong, then south over the passes to Manali, with a rest day in Leh and a spare day at the end for the road. If you only have a week, fly into Leh and take the Ladakh Classic instead.